This is the skid plate, this thing is huge and beefy: 3/16" steel plate, 48lbs!
First off you will need some basic tools to complete this task yourself:
Left to right:
Hammer, small pry bar, screwdriver (any size will do), ratchet, 17mm socket, 1/2" socket, 1/2" box end wrench, 5/16" COBALT!! drill bit, Large Vise grips, Tape (any kind will do), Power drill.
Make sure that if you are using a cordless drill that you have at LEAST 2 batteries, you will quickly burn through them and need to rotate them on the charger.
I picked up both titanium and a cobalt drill bit to test them out. The cobalt bit is far superior to the titanium and cuts quickly fairly easy through the steel.
Not in the picture but probably the most important would be a pair of safety glasses/goggles. Common sense to most when drilling metal above your head but easily skipped. I just spent 20 minutes getting metal shavings out of my eyes, so learn from my mistake!
Floor jack and a piece of plywood:
Here are some of the most important tools for ME to complete a project
:
Make sure you have the following parts that came with your skid plate:
2 - 1" hex bolts
4 - 2" hex bolts
6 - hex nuts
6 - flat washers
6 - lock washers
4 - aluminum spacers
Ok now that you have everything together:
Park the vehicle on a hard level surface and engage the emergency brake.
Loosen the bolt on the front of the factory gas tank skid plate closest to the center of the vehicle using the 17mm socket and ratchet. Back it out just enough to slide the new skid plate on.
Using the floor jack and plywood balance the skid plate on the jack, move into position and jack it up until the slotted corner lines up with the gas tank skid bolt. Jack it up far enough that it is somewhat secure against the frame.
Be careful it is heavy and tipsy!
Slide the skid plate under the bolt and washer and tighten just enough to hold it but allow for movement.
Jack the plate up further against the frame to prevent it from falling.
On the front of the skid plate line up the holes with the holes in the cross member. This is the tricky part, I wrapped a piece of tape backwards around my index finger so the sticky part faces out. Insert a 1" hex bolt and flat washer through the plate and through the cross member. using the tape on your finger, stick a lock washer to it and work it into the cross member and drop it onto the bolt (may take a few attempts to feel it in there), repeat with a hex nut. Hand tighten only.
repeat on the opposite side.
Once you have the front bolts on you can remove the floor jack.
Make sure the 4 remaining holes in the middle and rear of the plate are not too close to the edge of the cross members. you need to have enough room on the lip to drill through.
I had to use a hammer to move the plate far enough forward to get clearance.
when you have the plate in place, use a pair of vise grips to hold the plate to the frame ( not too tight or you will crack the powder coat). Tighten the bolts in front and on the gas tank skid to keep the plate from moving when you drill.
Using the pry bar, pry between the plate and the frame just enough to get the aluminum spacers lined up with the holes. You can move them around using the screwdriver.
Now that everything is lined up and secured you can begin drilling. Start at the rear of the plate, drill holes through the cross member making sure they are far enough in to safely hold the bolts. Once you have them drilled out install a 2" hex nut, flat washer, lock washer and nut through the plate/spacer/cross member, hand tighten.
Repeat for the middle holes.
Tighten all the bolts down using the 1/2" socket on the bolt end and "hold the nuts" with the 1/2" box wrench. Check to see that the exhaust pipe is not touching the plate. and you are done!
First off you will need some basic tools to complete this task yourself:
Left to right:
Hammer, small pry bar, screwdriver (any size will do), ratchet, 17mm socket, 1/2" socket, 1/2" box end wrench, 5/16" COBALT!! drill bit, Large Vise grips, Tape (any kind will do), Power drill.
Make sure that if you are using a cordless drill that you have at LEAST 2 batteries, you will quickly burn through them and need to rotate them on the charger.
I picked up both titanium and a cobalt drill bit to test them out. The cobalt bit is far superior to the titanium and cuts quickly fairly easy through the steel.
Not in the picture but probably the most important would be a pair of safety glasses/goggles. Common sense to most when drilling metal above your head but easily skipped. I just spent 20 minutes getting metal shavings out of my eyes, so learn from my mistake!
Floor jack and a piece of plywood:
Here are some of the most important tools for ME to complete a project
: Make sure you have the following parts that came with your skid plate:
2 - 1" hex bolts
4 - 2" hex bolts
6 - hex nuts
6 - flat washers
6 - lock washers
4 - aluminum spacers
Ok now that you have everything together:
Park the vehicle on a hard level surface and engage the emergency brake.
Loosen the bolt on the front of the factory gas tank skid plate closest to the center of the vehicle using the 17mm socket and ratchet. Back it out just enough to slide the new skid plate on.
Using the floor jack and plywood balance the skid plate on the jack, move into position and jack it up until the slotted corner lines up with the gas tank skid bolt. Jack it up far enough that it is somewhat secure against the frame.
Be careful it is heavy and tipsy!
Slide the skid plate under the bolt and washer and tighten just enough to hold it but allow for movement.
Jack the plate up further against the frame to prevent it from falling.
On the front of the skid plate line up the holes with the holes in the cross member. This is the tricky part, I wrapped a piece of tape backwards around my index finger so the sticky part faces out. Insert a 1" hex bolt and flat washer through the plate and through the cross member. using the tape on your finger, stick a lock washer to it and work it into the cross member and drop it onto the bolt (may take a few attempts to feel it in there), repeat with a hex nut. Hand tighten only.
repeat on the opposite side.
Once you have the front bolts on you can remove the floor jack.
Make sure the 4 remaining holes in the middle and rear of the plate are not too close to the edge of the cross members. you need to have enough room on the lip to drill through.
I had to use a hammer to move the plate far enough forward to get clearance.
when you have the plate in place, use a pair of vise grips to hold the plate to the frame ( not too tight or you will crack the powder coat). Tighten the bolts in front and on the gas tank skid to keep the plate from moving when you drill.
Using the pry bar, pry between the plate and the frame just enough to get the aluminum spacers lined up with the holes. You can move them around using the screwdriver.
Now that everything is lined up and secured you can begin drilling. Start at the rear of the plate, drill holes through the cross member making sure they are far enough in to safely hold the bolts. Once you have them drilled out install a 2" hex nut, flat washer, lock washer and nut through the plate/spacer/cross member, hand tighten.
Repeat for the middle holes.
Tighten all the bolts down using the 1/2" socket on the bolt end and "hold the nuts" with the 1/2" box wrench. Check to see that the exhaust pipe is not touching the plate. and you are done!
